A Rhône blend, and the wine that best exemplifies the Châteauneuf-style blend that inland Mendocino is hoping will put it on the map. This is magnificent stuff, lusty and full-bodied, with mixed berry flavors that are dominated by the aroma of white pepper. It’s dry, with complex, dusty tannins and a round, smooth mouthfeel. Lighter than Cabernet but denser than Pinot Noir, it strikes a balanced note, and may be one of the most versatile wines around. Cellar Selection. —S.H.