Highlands 2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)

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Compared to Highlands’ regular Cab, this is a great example of sometimes, more is less. The ’06 Reserve is a gigantic wine, both in ripely extracted currants and in the taste of new, smoky oak. But it’s very size makes it ponderous. The question is one of ageability. It could well be a sleeper. Try beyond 2010.

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