Joseph Phelps 1997 Insignia Red (Napa Valley)

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Opens with aromas of black cherry and pencil lead, fruitcake and cookie dough; now it’s all one big melange wrapped a bit tight. The balance and immense depth of fruit shine, even in this unevolved state. Standard dark-plum and chocolate notes are rendered with uncommon subtlety here. The finish goes on and on. Needs four to six years, but will last and last.

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