From vines planted in 1893, this wine combines spicy complexity with size and ultraconcentrated fruit. It tips the scales at 16% alcohol, but wears it well, hiding it under hints of licorice and subtle wood spice and layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit. Yes, it’s big, but it’s not inelegant, finishing lush, long and spicy. Terrific stuff that should drink well from 2010–2020.
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