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Laurent-Perrier NV Cuvée Ultra Brut Sparkling


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The "ultra-mate" oyster Champagne? This is lean and austere, spicy and herbal, bracingly tart and grapefruity--all things to look for when pairing with raw bivalves.

This no-dosage sparkler is immensely crisp and appley, with aromas of mint and licorice. If you’re not expecting an austere, dry style, the green apple and lemon flavors might seem sour. It’s 100% tangy and sharp, but it’s precise for what it is. Not a cocktail party wine, but something like sushi will help it along.

Their regular brut is just a touch sweeter than average, so the ultra brut seems a bit less, well, brutish than some others. Austere, certainly, but with plenty of crisp, fresh citrus fruit and a bit of vanilla custard. Screams for raw oysters.

Brut nature is a bone-dry style of Champagne, dry well beyond ordinary brut, which lends a steely refinement to the usual toast and fruit. This wine is absolutely built for oysters or caviar. Though it’s a rarely seen style of Champagne, this is an excellent effort.
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