The first sniff and taste tell you this is an important wine, but also a very young, tannic one. It’s the structure, and not just the ripe flavors, that’s so impeccable, giving the wine its backbone and strength. But speaking of flavors, the wine is gigantic in black currants and blackberries. One hundred percent new French oak is completely in accord with the size. Drink now, with decanting, and through 2015 at least.