Montagna 2009 Tre Vigneti Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

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This starts out closed and tight, shut down by tannins and immaturity, but plenty of swirling reveals elusive black-licorice and blackberry notes, accented by smoky oak. The tannins really kick in toward the middle, but hard as they are, they exhibit great breed. Despite its sweet core of fruit, this is nowhere close to being ready. Give it 10 years.

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