After many years of cult stardom, Shafer’s Red Shoulder Ranch still rules. It performs the difficult feat of combining powerful richness with dry elegance. The pineapple, Meyer lemon and kaffir lime flavors are undergirded with a steely mineralty, while oak and lees add rich tiers of interest. The 2008 is tarter than usual, making it a good foil against lobster risotto or grilled salmon with a tropical fruit salsa topping.
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