Fermented to a plus-size 15.4% alcohol, this rare wine from one of Washington’s oldest and best Cabernet vineyards shows what a gifted winemaker can do with great fruit. The play of flavors, mixing red and purple fruits, toasted nuts, mocha, caramel, bark and earth, is exceptional. The detail is extraordinary for a wine with such high alcohol. The acids and tannins are seamless and fine, and the flavors extend into an unusual finish that suggests menthol and eucalyptus —not generally a character found in Champoux fruit. All in all it’s a wonderful voyage, and one of a handful of essential Washington wines.