Fresh asphalt, burning timber, bitter chocolate, and anything else that connotes “darkness” is what this heavyweight is about. And as rough as that may sound aromatically, on the palate it’s polished like a gemstone, with just enough grit and guts to push it forward. The fruit, meanwhile, is sensational, a panoply of black plums and cherries infused with cocoa and vanilla. This offers a clear look into 21st-century Brunello, and the picture is breathtaking. Imported by Vinifera Imports.