A massive wine, decadent and splendid, and a worthy followup to the near-perfect 2008. Densely packed in fruit, it explodes in blackberries, cassis, dark chocolate, minerals and sweet, toasty new oak. That richness is lifted to brilliance by the tannic structure, which is world class. So deliciously approachable, it’s drinkable now, but it should develop over the next 6–8 years. Beyond that, all bets are off, because this modern style of soft, relatively high-alcohol wines has yet to prove itself over the long haul.
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