Steve Heimoff

Reviews from Steve Heimoff.

West Coast Editor Steve Heimoff was born in New York City and moved to California to attend graduate school. He quickly discovered wine and…

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• • 99
  • $94

  Williams Selyem 2009 Precious Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

  1. Appellation: Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Pinot Noir

  A stupendous Pinot Noir, showing how beautifully this vineyard performs in the remote Sonoma Coast above Fort Ross. Williams Selyem’s last few vintages of Precious Mountain have been extraordinary, but this 2009 tops them all. The wine is as light as a feather in the mouth, modest in alcohol and delicately feminine, like pure satin. However, few Pinot Noirs in the world achieve this level of concentration. Wild raspberries and cherries, cola, sleek minerals, dusty baking spices and smoky oak combine for flavors that are utterly delicious. After all that, it possesses an indefineable attribute of fascination. Will age well for a long time, if you can keep your hands off it. Now–2021.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 99
• • 97
  • $150

  JCB 2009 No. 1 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

  1. Appellation: Napa Valley, Napa, California, US
  2. Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon

  An outstanding wine, the best California Cabernet Jean-Charles Boisset has ever produced from any of his properties. It stands out in any tasting of its peers. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, and aged in 60% new oak, it shows satisfying, complex flavors of blackberries, blueberries, cassis, hazelnut-infused chocolate and spices. Hard to exaggerate its power and grace. Wonderful now and for a good six years, but it’s difficult to predict its evolution beyond 2018.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 97
• • 97
  • $82

  Williams Selyem 2009 Allen Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

  1. Appellation: Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Pinot Noir

  A drop-dead gorgeous Pinot Noir that will satisfy everyone from Burgundy fans to diehard Cabernet cultists. Show an elegant complexity and silky texture that define great California Pinot Noir, yet with a powerful impact that emphasizes raspberries, cherries and blueberries. Brilliant acidity and tannins provide the perfect framework on this wine that’s drinkable now, and will develop over the next 15–20 years.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 97
• • 96
  • $78

  Williams Selyem 2009 Rochioli Riverblock Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

  1. Appellation: Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Pinot Noir

  A triumph, one of the greatest Riverblock bottings in years. This always is a captivating wine, but the ’09 is particularly scrumptious. Although it’s quite tannic and acidic, it’s forward enough in raspberries, cherries and cola to enjoy now. But it’s bone dry and as elegant as California Pinot Noir gets. The balance suggests an ability to age for a good 10 years, if not longer.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 96
• • 96
  • $125

  Groth 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville)

  1. Appellation: Oakville, Napa, California, US
  2. Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon

  A huge Cabernet, in the best sense of the word. It wasn’t the easiest vintage, as 2007 was, but meticulous winemaking did the job, resulting in this amazingly rich, impressively ripe wine that’s drinkable now and will develop for many years. The fruits veer toward blackberries, cherries and cola, and the tannins are soft and refined. One hundred percent new French oak isn’t at all heavy, lending nuances of buttered toast and sweet wood tannins. Will easily age for 15 years.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 96
• • 95
  • $75

  Hanzell 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley)

  1. Appellation: Sonoma Valley, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Chardonnay

  A tremendous Chardonnay. As always, the winery’s ’09 is bone dry, crisply acidic and minerally. You might call it austere at this point, with its tart finish of grapefruit. But a great Hanzell Chardonnay will improve for at least a decade, possible two, and this is a great Hanzell Chardonnay. The score reflects what the wine likely will be approximately eight years down the road.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 95
• • 95
  • $300

  Hundred Acre 2008 Ark Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

  1. Appellation: Napa Valley, Napa, California, US
  2. Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon

  Deserves its high score by virtue of power and sheer flamboyant dazzle. Packed with ripe, sweet cherries and milk chocolate, with a decadently meaty taste, like beef tartare. Oak plays the usual role, adding a caramelly, buttered toast richness. The tannins are brilliant, so soft and sweet, they’re like candy. Drink this flashy wine over the next six years.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 95
• • 95
  • $56

  Williams Selyem 2009 Flax Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

  1. Appellation: Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Pinot Noir

  A sip is all it takes to fall in love with this potent Pinot Noir. Big tannins and crisp acidity make it hard to appreciate now, but there’s a gigantic core of cherries and raspberries, with a firm minerality from the soil. Will develop bottle complexity over the years. Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2015.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 95
• • 95
  • $75

  Williams Selyem 2009 Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

  1. Appellation: Sonoma Coast, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Pinot Noir

  Soft and ripe enough to drink now, after a decent decanting, it shows pure raspberry, blueberry and cherry fruit flavors, subtlely accented with cola and baking spices, and all of it wrapped into thick but smooth tannins. Good as it is, it will gain traction over the next 15 years.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 95
• • 95
  • $100

  Williams Selyem 2009 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

  1. Appellation: Russian River Valley, Sonoma, California, US
  2. Varietal: Pinot Noir

  From the winery’s own Westside Road vineyard, formerly called Litton, comes this grandiose, if immature, Pinot Noir. In its youth it’s all about primary, jammy raspberry and cherry fruit. On the edges are fine acidity, smooth tannins and a perfect appliqué of oak. Shows the hallmarks of this great, emerging vineyard, but needs serious time to come around. Try after 2015.  — S.H.  (2/1/2012)  — 95