Published in August 2003

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the August 2003 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Willi Brundlmayer 2001 Lyra Zöbinger Heiligenstein Riesling (Kamptal)

Price $48

Bründlmayer, one of Austria’s most famed winemakers, finds that the lyre method of training the vine gives significantly more concentration. That’s certainly true of this rich, full, intense wine, with its powering acidity and flavors of almonds, white currants and cranberries. — R.V. (8/1/2003)

points

Franz Hirtzberger 2001 Steinterrassen Federspiel Riesling (Wachau)

Price $24

A beautifully elegant, focused wine, full of racy, steely fruit, managing to combine fullness with lightness and an intensely dry aftertaste. Hirtzberger’s 29-acre vineyard is in the western Wachau village of Spitz, where the Rieslings are aged in large acacia wood barrels. — R.V. (8/1/2003)

points

Bodegas Dios Baco S.L. NV Oloroso Sherry (Jerez)

Online Exclusive

Price $25

Smells and tastes semisweet, with vanilla and molasses on the nose. The palate runs sweet as well, with root beer, brown sugar and brownie flavors. It’s enjoyable and made right, but with less acidity and cut than many Sherries. Finishes with a mocha blast and some grabby thickness. — M.S. (2/1/2009)

points

Hartford 2000 Dutton-Sanchietti Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Price $50

— W.E. (8/1/2003)

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Babcock 1997 Grand Cuvée Estate Chardonnay (Santa Ynez Valley)

Online Exclusive

Price $30

— W.E. (8/1/2003)

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Vinícola Hidalgo NV Pastrana Manzanilla Pasada Sherry (Jerez)

Editors' Choice

Price $18

The people at Hidalgo in Sanlúcar have taken dry Manzanilla and have let it age until it has turned golden and mature. The bouquet is full of exotic oils, nuts and some horsehide. In the mouth, it’s a touch salty and astringent, but there are buttery, sweet undertones and great focus. And on the back end the pure flavor of mushroom and almonds is uncanny. Sleek… — M.S. (8/1/2003)

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Provenance Vineyards 2000 Merlot (Carneros)

Price $28

Top flight Merlot, brimming with ripe black cherry, blackberry, chocolate, smoke, sage, thyme, anise and pepper notes. It’s all framed in silky ripe tannins, smooth, sleek and lush. The finish is long. -J.M. — J.M. (8/1/2003)

points

Surh Luchtel 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley)

Price $40

Another terrific Napa ‘99, this one packed with opulent flavors of cassis, green olives and herbs, wrapped generously in fine toasty oak. The wine is very dry and the tannins are fine and complex. The delicious finish goes on and on. — S.H. (8/1/2003)

2010 Pence Ranch Westslope

This is sourced from the winery's steepest and most wind-exposed blocks…

(Sponsored)