Published in January 2004

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the January 2004 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Hans Lang 2001 Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Beerenauslese Riesling (Rheingau)

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The 45-acre Hans Lang estate is run by Johann Maximilian Lang from the winery in Hattenheim. With this Beerenauslese, he has been able to extract all the best elements of botrytis. It is beautifully intense, full of ripe, sweet fruit, with tangible flavors of raisins and honey. The palate is silky smooth, voluptuous, opulent. There is enormous intensity. — R.V. (1/1/2004)

points

Franz Künstler 2001 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Eiswein Riesling (Rheingau)

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Price $150

This wine is the perfect example of the difference between the huge richness of a TBA and the relative delicacy of an Eiswein. Like pure syrup, it trickles through the palate, leaving flavors of ripe apricots, of orange marmalade and of intense honey. The intensity of the fruit flavors masks the high acidity but does show up the lightness that stays in the mouth. — R.V. (1/1/2004)

points

Balthasar Ress 2001 Hattenheimer Nussbrunnen Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling (Rheingau)

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Price $170

A blockbuster wine, hugely sweet and rich wine with powerful botrytis and honey. There are flavors of honey and acacia and an opulent layer of rich dryness. The underlying acidity gives the wine an enormous potential. — R.V. (1/1/2004)

points

Pol Roger 1996 Réserve Brut Rosé Sparkling

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Price $71

A wonderfully balanced wine, with elegance and style from its pure red fruits, and acidity. Pol Roger makes some of the most stylish Champagnes around, and this wine, with a color that bubbles from pale orange to beautiful onion-skin pink, is no exception. It goes well with food, even red meat. — R.V. (1/1/2004)

points

Warre's 1987 Reserve Tawny Port (Port)

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Price $28

A knockout of a 12-year-old tawny, with heavy, inviting caramel aromas and flavors. The color is still slightly rosy, showing that this wine has retained its fruity roots. Structured and weighty in the mouth, with notes of cloves and ginger throughout. — W.E. (1/1/2004)

points

Balthasar Ress 2001 Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling (Rheingau)

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Price $170

This is pure rich botrytis sweetness. The wine is concentrated, hugely rich with enormous power of intense ripeness. There is acidity and a sense of dry structure. Just amazing. — R.V. (1/1/2004)

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Trimbach 1998 Clos Ste Hune Riesling

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Price $100

— W.E. (1/1/2004)

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Deerfield Ranch 2001 Buchignani Vineyard Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley)

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Price $40

What a great Zin. Amazing how these old vines produce such intensity of flavor and perfect tannins. Blackberries, cherries, blueberries, mocha, pecan pie and a splash of sweet Tawny, yet not a trace of residual sugar. It all comes at the cost of high alcohol, however. — S.H. (1/1/2004)

2007 Trump Brut SP Reserve

Rich and luscious scents of baked apple, dried pineapple, honeyed…

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