Published in Early December 2004

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the Early December 2004 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Taylor Fladgate 1995 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velha Port (Port)

Cellar Selection

At almost 10 years of age, this mammoth effort is just starting to budge along the path to maturity. The nose is rich with scents of baking spices; the palate shows plenty of plum and blackberry fruit, but is more about earth, spice and raw power. This tremendously deep, powerful and structured wine should be even better by 2010, with a plateau of maturity that… — J.C. (12/1/2004)

points

Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2003 Bernkasteler Badstube Eiswein Riesling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

Price $175

Absolutely incredible eiswein, with finely etched flavors of pear and pineapple that flow across the palate like fruit syrup borne on light-footed acids. Stunningly sweet, but with great balancing acidity and a finish that lingers for minutes. — J.C. (12/15/2004)

points

Krug 1990 Brut Sparkling

Price $224

A bit dark in color and lacking in bubbles, but when it comes to aromas and flavors it’s out of this world. Vanilla, cinnamon, almond and apple scents are ethereal and mature as can be, while the palate deals layered apple and spice in multiple layers. Runs a mile long but soft on the finish. Unique in style; not the least bit zesty. Imported by Clicquot Inc. — M.S. (12/31/2005)

96-100

points

The Glenlivet 1966 Cellar Collection Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Price $2000

The initial aroma emits luscious notes of light toffee, milk chocolate and cocoa bean; following aeration a bouquet of dried red fruit, candied walnut, nougat and faint vanilla bean evolves. Palate entry is smooth and smolderingly warm; at midpalate tastes of mature oaky spirit underpin surface flavors of cedar, resin, caramel and a dash of plum eau-de-vie… — P.P. (12/15/2004)

96-100

points

Zuidam Dry Gin

Price $30

Wonderful beginning aroma of dried citrus zest/rind; following aeration the bouquet turns steely, spicy and earthy. The palate entry is tart, sublimely orangey and borderline sour; at midpalate the angelica, juniper and cardamom take charge, mingling perfectly with the orange rind. Ends silkily with flashes of orange zest and juniper. First class. — P.P. (12/15/2004)

points

Wenzel 2001 Saz Ruster Ausbruch White (Burgenland)

Price $120

Apricot and orange marmalade scents presage this wine’s viscous sweetness, but the wine also boasts incredible precision and clarity to its flavors. Dried apricots, honey and citrus all come together in a complex swirl that never seems too heavy or cloying. Finishes with a hint of bergamots (the flavoring in Earl Grey tea). A blend of Furmint and Gelber Muskateller. — J.C. (12/15/2004)

points

Taylor Fladgate 2000 Vargellas Vinhas Velha Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection

The youngest of Taylor Fladgate's Vargellas old vines bottling offers considerable aging potential. It's richly tannic and chewy in the mouth; firm on the finish. The noble structure amply supports dried spices, chocolate amd plum flavors. Try after 2015. — J.C. (12/1/2004)

points

Maximin Grünhäuser 2003 Abtsberg Beerenauslese Riesling (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer)

Price $167

Heavily botrytized, this thick, unctuous wine virtually oozes with dried apricots and spiced applesauce aromas and flavors. So much going on it’s hard to adequately describe, with a long, sticky finish. — J.C. (12/15/2004)

2010 Center of Effort

A big, strong Pinot with pure, focused flavors of raspberry cream…

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