Published in June 2004
Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the June 2004 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.
Fanti 1999 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
- $80
Rich, dark and lush, with liqueur-like aromas wafting upward from a sea of purple. An obvious entry into the “modern” category of Brunello. There’s jammy, mouthcoating fruit and only modest acidity. Detractors may find it heavy and bruising, but fans will adore its weight and creaminess.
— M.S.
(6/1/2004)
Ruffino 1999 Greppone Mazzi Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
- $65
From Ruffino, this Brunello is ripe yet earthy, with a touch of forest and moss to the nose. It may be softer and riper than many, but it’s definitely balanced. Meanwhile, fine black cherry and plum fruit steals the palate, which also dishes hints of chocolate and fennel. Good tannins and grip ensure its longevity.
— M.S.
(6/1/2004)
La Serena 1999 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
Earthy and rusty in color, but liquid gold in the mouth. It’s round, complete and subtle. The dry red fruit is touched up by accents of root beer, smoke and brown sugar. When drinking, a vise grip of tannins clamp down. That said, maturity seems in sight. Start drinking in 2005.
— M.S.
(6/1/2004)
Le Macioche 1999 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
With integrated leather, dried fruit, and tomato aromas, this is just what textbook Brunello is all about. It’s sly, deep and complex, albeit a wee bit tight and tangy. Time should soften it up, and then it will deliver all the goods. Drink in 2007.
— M.S.
(6/1/2004)
Uccelliera 1999 Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)
A touch rusty to the eye, but pretty to the nose. Aromas of mint, clove and dried fruits elicit excitement, as does the lovely round palate that’s loaded with flavors of smoked meat and herbal but ripe berry fruit. Quite full-bodied and sly, although its aging potential could be limited. Likely best over the next three to five years.
— M.S.
(6/1/2004)
Ferrari-Carano 2001 Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros)
- $32
All the bells and whistles are here, from the malolactic fermentation that makes the wine soft and buttery to the heavy lees contact to barrel fermentation with lots of new oak. The result is creamy and complex, framing modest flavors of apples, tangerines and peaches.
— S.H.
(8/1/2004)
L'Aventure 2001 Optimus Red (Paso Robles)
- $45
From Rhône-possessed Paso Robles, an adventurous blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Zinfandel. The aroma is subdued now, closed and brooding. On the palate is an explosion of cassis, briar, chocolate and coffee. Sweet, ripe tannins make for a dusty mouthfeel. Needs a minimum of a year in the cellar.
— S.H.
(6/1/2004)
Abiouness 2001 Stanly Ranch Pinot Noir (Carneros)
- $35
A fine-tuned, complex wine that offers a beautiful blend of cherry, spice, earth, herb, leather and coffee notes all framed in smooth, supple tannins. It’s elegant and refined, long on the finish and somewhat lush. A terrific wine from a relative newcomer, Nicole Abiouness.
— J.M.
(6/1/2004)
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