Wines like this are why 2003 has generated such buzz across Germany. Thick and oily-textured, and filled with flavors of superripe pears, peaches and dried apricots, this is a monumental dessert wine. Yes, it’s decadently rich, but it also boasts sufficient acidity to keep it from becoming cloying. Finishes long, with lingering notes of tropical fruit and citrus…
— J.C.
(5/1/2005)
This low production barrel selection from Morgan's Double L Vineyard is one of the best Chards of the vintage. Has everything Double L has, but more. Fabulous weight and density, and tiers of flavors ranging from pineapples through peaches, creme brulee and butterscotch. Fat, almost meaty, yet dry, elegant and refined.
— S.H.
(5/1/2005)
This is a great Cab that showcases the ageability of certain Napa Cabs. It’s tightly wound now, with acids and rich tannins overshadowing the pure, sweet blackberry, black cherry and cassis flavors. Impressive for its intensity, power and harmony. Drink tonight, or cellar it for a decade.
— S.H.
(5/1/2005)
That Laurence Faller is able to conjure wonders from her family’s great estate is an incontrovertible fact. But if further proof were needed, here it is in the shape of a fabulous Riesling from a small parcel of vines. It has enormous fruit, which is so pure, so steely and rich at the same time. It has hedgerow fruits, packing in behind finesse and elegance, with…
— R.V.
(5/1/2005)
This spectacular Pinot, which defines its South Coast terroir, is a great wine. The extracted fruit is massive, flooding the palate with cherries and raspberries, and the wine is well-oaked. Yet it combines its power with regal grace, which is what Pinot is supposed to do. Finishes with a silky, velvety harmony. Really an eye-opening wine, superb in every respect.
— S.H.
(5/1/2005)
Here’s dessert in a glass. Smells apricotty and botrytisy and vanilla-honeyed, and drinks rich in nectar. This makes it sound astoundingly sweet, but it’s not. Tastes like sautéed bananas, caramelized in butter, flamed in amaretto, and served on top of vanilla ice cream.
— S.H.
(5/1/2005)
Beringer’s longtime executive winemaker Ed Sbragia finally has own brand, and this is his first, eagerly anticipated Cabernet. Like Beringer’s Private Reserve, it’s a gigantic wine. Concentrated and intense in currant, cherries and cocoa, solidly oaked, and those Howell Mountain tannins are sweet and ripe. Delicious now. Soft, so it’s hard to predict how long it…
— S.H.
(5/1/2005)
This is a Merlot for the cellar. Rich, dramatic and creamy, it throws a thick carpet of tannins across the palate that spread the ripest cherries and blackberries, assisted by scads of toasty oak. Fully dry, perfectly balanced, sensual and satisfying, it should improve for at least five years.
— S.H.
(5/1/2005)