Published in July 2005

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the July 2005 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Marchesi de' Frescobaldi 1999 Castelgiocondo Riserva Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)

Cellar Selection

Price $100

Tight as nails on the nose before it explodes on the palate in a cacophony of cherry, cassis, black plum, tobacco and chocolate. It’s like the best cigar and a great red wine rolled into one. Yes, the tannins are hammering and yes, the acidity is forward. But that only means this brilliant Brunello should age for 15 years without batting an eyelash. Imported by Folio — M.S. (7/1/2005)

points

Valdicava 1999 Madonna del Piano Riserva Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)

Editors' Choice

Price $130

Fresh asphalt, burning timber, bitter chocolate, and anything else that connotes “darkness” is what this heavyweight is about. And as rough as that may sound aromatically, on the palate it’s polished like a gemstone, with just enough grit and guts to push it forward. The fruit, meanwhile, is sensational, a panoply of black plums and cherries infused with cocoa and… — M.S. (7/1/2005)

points

Il Palazzone 1999 Riserva Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)

Editors' Choice

Price $95

A gorgeous wine with amazing texture and integration. The nose and feel are so soft and silky, and the fruit is as expressive as Sangiovese gets. Plush and royal, with perfect tannic structure, smiling acidity and smoky shadings. A dream in the glass, with meters of depth. Imported by Domaine Select Wine Estates. — M.S. (7/1/2005)

points

Donatella Cinelli Colombini 1999 Riserva Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)

Cellar Selection

Price $65

Saturated to the max, with a violet/ruby tint that shows no breaks. If it looks like an extracted bruiser, it is. The tannins are big and precise, however, they aren’t aggressive or mean. In a fine-tuned cellar this will come around in about five years to show amazing black cherry and plum fruit, and lots of style. Imported by Supreme Wines & Spirits. — M.S. (7/1/2005)

points

Poggio Antico 1999 Riserva Sangiovese (Brunello di Montalcino)

Cellar Selection

Price $125

Here’s a huge, stately wine with a brick-based structure and mounds of lovely oak that is already so well integrated you barely notice it. Quite tannic, and will require come cellaring. When you do drink it, expect warm flavors, liqueur-soaked berry fruit and a mile-long finish. Hold until 2010, at least. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. — M.S. (7/1/2005)

points

Gaja 2001 Costa Russi Red (Langhe)

Price $350

Darker, richer and earthier than Gaja’s Barbaresco, picking up notes of coffee, vanilla and toast as well. Yet on the palate there’s wonderfully bright cherry-raspberry fruit and masses of lush, velvety tannins that will give this wine plenty of life in the cellar. Drink 2012–2030. — W.E. (7/1/2005)

points

Gaja 2001 Sorì San Lorenzo Red (Langhe)

Price $350

Perhaps less nuanced than the Sorì Tildìn, but more powerful, with round, mouthfilling flavors and firm tannins. Hints of tobacco and vanilla add complexity to rich plum and black cherry notes, finshing with a lovely touch of anise. Drink 2015–2030 and beyond. — W.E. (7/1/2005)

points

Gaja 2001 Sorì Tildin Red (Langhe)

Price $350

Filled with intoxicating perfume reminiscent of dried spices, fine leather, exotic woods, then delivers bold black cherry, plum and Asian spice flavors tightly wrapped in a velvety blanket of tannin. Long and richly chewy on the finish, yet minerally as well. Drink 2015–2030. — W.E. (7/1/2005)

2010 Pence Ranch Westslope

This is sourced from the winery's steepest and most wind-exposed blocks…

(Sponsored)