Published in Early December 2006

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the Early December 2006 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Clarendon Hills 2004 Astralis Syrah (Clarendon)

Cellar Selection

Price $325

The flagship of the Clarendon Hills line, this comes from a patch of 80-year-old vines that winemaker Bratasiuk claims routinely provides his best fruit. The 2004 is a stunner, yielding up scents of flowers and spice, framed by hints of vanillin oak. It’s dense and amply textured in the mouth, packed with wonderfully expressive blackberry and blueberry fruit, then… — J.C. (12/15/2006)

points

Chateau St. Jean 2003 Reserve Chardonnay (Sonoma County)

Editors' Choice

Price $45

What a roll St. Jean has been on with Chardonnay. This wine was made from a majority of Robert Young and Belle Terre vineyard fruit, and is two-thirds new French oak. The combination is mind-blowing. The vineyards contribute concentrated spicy, tropical fruit flavors and perfect acid balance, while the oak provides elaborate seasoning. Absolutely delicious. One of… — S.H. (12/1/2006)

points

Domaine Leflaive 2003 Les Pucelles Premier Cru Chardonnay (Puligny-Montrachet)

Editors' Choice

Price $175

As Anne-Claude Leflaive describes it, this wine is all about the complexity of the vineyard’s soil. There is minerality and finesse from the chalk, which gives a structure. And at the same time the ripe fruit seems opulent, with vanilla and spice flavors adding something exotic. Age this wine for at least 5 years. — R.V. (12/1/2006)

points

Bouchard Pere & Fils 2004 La Cabotte Chardonnay (Chevalier-Montrachet)

Price $500

This comes from high up in the Chevalier-Montrachet vineyard, from vines surrounding a small workers shed, the “cabotte.” It is the better of the two bottlings from this vineyard by Bouchard, although “better” here is like differentiating between two stars on top form. It has great poise, so although the richness is there, it is shot through with acidity and citric… — R.V. (12/1/2006)

points

Joseph Drouhin 2004 Marquis de Laguiche Chardonnay (Montrachet)

Editors' Choice

Price $596

This is a beautifully shaped wine that rises from a quiet opening. Muted and slightly closed up at this stage, it opens opulently but with balanced acidity and crispness, as well as richness and restrained power. — R.V. (12/1/2006)

points

Etienne Sauzet 2004 Chardonnay (Montrachet)

Price $500

A fine wine that offers power, generosity and also a chalky, mineral character. No wonder Montrachet is seen as the greatest grand cru—it has structure, concentration, delicious fruit and layers of complexity. It also needs to age. To drink this wine now would be more than a shame. — R.V. (12/1/2006)

points

Clarendon Hills 2004 Hickinbotham Syrah (Clarendon)

Cellar Selection

Price $100

One of the more obviously ageworthy offerings from Clarendon Hills, the 2004 Hickinbotham Syrah boasts a wonderfully perfumed bouquet of flowers, minerals and spice. Then it backs up those captivating aromatics with rich blueberry fruit shaded with mint and cracked pepper and a long, firmly tannic and minerally finish. Drink 2010–2020. — J.C. (12/15/2006)

96-100

points

Cognac Tesseron Perfection Lot Nº. 53 XO Grande Champagne Cognac

Price $150

The nosing passes find an oaky/nut paste aroma with fruity notes of berries, dried fruit, plums, pears and soft cheese. The palate entry is composed, succulent and honeyed; by midpalate the flavors deepen to include caramel, rancio and orange rind. Finishes beautifully with depth, finesse and maturity. — P.P. (11/27/2006)

2010 Mira Stanly Ranch

Winemaker Gustavo Gonzalez left Robert Mondavi to do his own thing, and…

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