Published in February 2007

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the February 2007 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Taylor Fladgate 2000 Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection

Price $270

The hue of this wine takes dark and inky to a new level—and this wine’s intensity isn’t confined to its color. This is simply huge in every way, yet because every component is in proportion, the balance is impeccable. Incredibly rich, dense fruit picks up hints of tar and chocolate, while the finish lasts for what must be minutes. Hold. — J.C. (2/1/2007)

points

Taylor Fladgate 1970 Vintage Port (Port)

Price $255

This wine’s dark garnet color with minimal bricking suggests a relatively youthful wine and this certainly could age longer, although it’s also delicious now. Wonderfully complex floral and herbal scents easily move into deep, rich flavors of chocolate and cherries, sprinkled with a healthy dose of Douro minerality and spice. Drink or hold. — J.C. (2/1/2007)

points

Taylor Fladgate 1994 Vintage Port (Port)

Price $290

This is very much in the mold of the 1992—maybe slightly less rich but just by a whisker. It’s dense without being heavy, with a beautifully spice-filled and long finish. Flavors of chocolate, mint and plum pudding linger elegantly for a few seconds longer than the ’92. Hold. — J.C. (2/1/2007)

points

Harlan Estate 2003 Red (Napa Valley)

Price $265

Another spectacular Harlan hits the market. It shows the earthy quality that marks wines off the estate, with an aroma suggesting a warm bale of hay under the summer sun, a sweet straw and bay laurel scent that adds savory richness to the cherry, blackberry and chocolate flavors. As usual, the tannins are virtual perfection, at once sweet and firm, dense and fine… — S.H. (2/1/2007)

points

Taylor Fladgate 1948 Vintage Port (Port)

Most houses declared 1947 instead, but this ’48 is beautiful to taste now. Starts off almost meaty or coffee-like, then shows more plum and prune notes, while delicate herb and floral notes emerge only after prolonged aeration. It’s richly textured in the mouth, with a seamless mouthfeel and no alcohol evident amid the dense, chocolaty flavors. Drink or hold. — J.C. (2/1/2007)

points

Taylor Fladgate 2004 Vargellas Vinha Velha Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection

Price $240

Bottled in July 2006, this wine remains deliciously open, showcasing floral, violet scents intertwined with rich layers of plum and chocolate. Although the firm structure is evident, there’s more than adequate fruit for balance. A lovely combination of power and elegance. Hold. — J.C. (2/1/2007)

points

Kracher 2004 Zwischen den Seen Trockenbeerenauslese Nummer 10 Scheurebe (Neusiedlersee)

Cellar Selection

Price $90

The most complex of Kracher’s 2004 TBAs, as well as the richest in residual sugar. It has mandarin orange, peaches and crystallized fruits. There is freshness, despite its sweetness. It should age magnificently. — R.V. (2/1/2007)

points

BOND 2003 St. Eden Red (Napa Valley)

Price $230

Tasted alongside the Melbury, St. Eden is richer, more layered and complex. The jammy cherry and chocolate flavors here possess deeper notes of blue and purple fruits, with a brooding, mulchy depth that grounds the wine. The texture is gorgeous, with perfectly ripe, sweet tannins. Despite the wine’s power, it has an airy, cloud-like quality, surely the mark of a… — S.H. (2/1/2007)

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