Published in Early December 2009

Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the Early December 2009 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.

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Charles Smith 2006 Royal City Syrah (Columbia Valley (WA))

Price $80

In 2005 Charles Smith introduced three high-end Syrahs. In 2006 Smith has made a wine better than each of these, by combining them into a single wine—Royal City Syrah. Rich scents of purple fruit, smoked meat, cedar, lead pencil, moist earth and so on proclaim a wine with genuine gravitas. There is nothing missing, from the first sniff to the last sip, the wine… — P.G. (12/1/2009)

points

Evening Land 2007 Occidental Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast)

Cellar Selection

Price $150

A terrific Pinot, and one of the few that absolutely demands cellaring. The tannic structure is enormous, providing a sandpapery dryness to the palate. Yet the flavor explosion is so powerful, you can enjoy it now with utter satisfaction. Erupts in grilled blackberry and cherry, Dr. Pepper cola, bacon, anise, sautéed wild mushroom and smoky sandalwood flavors… — S.H. (12/15/2009)

points

Château d'Yquem 2005 White (Sauternes)

Cellar Selection
Online Exclusive

Price $800

This isn’t sweet, but just so wonderfully rich. It’s the concentration of botrytis that makes the wine. The texture is velvet, but with a spicy bite to it. Apricot, honey and marzipan all contribute to a wine that will age over decades. — R.V. (12/1/2009)

points

Laurent-Perrier NV Grande Siècle Sparkling

Cellar Selection

Price $200

Laurent-Perrier’s prestige cuvée is always non-vintage, a blend of top years. The latest bottling is so elegant, definitely maturing from bottle aging and older vintages in the blend, but still worthy of aging in itself. It is dry, in the L-P style, but has richness, an intense pink grapefruit character, hints of cilantro, the final acidity a great shaft of light. — R.V. (12/1/2009)

points

Taylor Fladgate 2007 Quinta de Vargellas Vinha Velhas Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection
Online Exclusive

Price $230

A serious, impressive wine produced from a small parcel of old vines at Vargellas. With minerality, spice, dark black plums and a dense tannic structure, this is obviously ready for a long haul of aging. The tannins give an initial bitterness, but then the juicy, wonderfully ripe fruit comes in. — R.V. (12/15/2009)

points

Dow's 2007 Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection
Online Exclusive

Price $76

A solidly structured wine, packed with initially sweet fruit that then becomes drier as the ripe tannins show through. All the ingredients are there, supported by a tense texture to go with the first sweetness. It’s an exciting wine, obviously very ageworthy. — R.V. (12/15/2009)

points

Fonseca 2007 Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection
Online Exclusive

Price $95

Dense and serious, a powerful vintage, as would be expected from Fonseca. The whole emphasis of the wine pushes the tannins forward, but this structure is based on black plums with dark fruit skins and a solid, chunky character. The finish is juicy and bold. — R.V. (12/15/2009)

points

Niepoort 2007 Vintage Port (Port)

Cellar Selection
Online Exclusive

Price $100

An impressive, balanced wine from master winemaker Dirk van Niepoort. Chocolate and licorice flavors dominate the fruit, giving a wine that has weight, complexity and at the same time elegance. The tannins offer a dense, dry structure. It is tight, solid and certainly for aging. — R.V. (12/15/2009)

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