Published in June 2009
Wines, Spirits and Beers published in the June 2009 issue of Wine Enthusiast Magazine.
Von Strasser 2006 Post Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain)
- $75
This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is way too young to drink now for the hard, astringent tannins, which lock down the palate. Shows a firm, minerally backbone to the blackberry, black currant and sweet cedar flavors. Best after 2010, and should age gracefully through 2014, at least.
— S.H.
(6/1/2009)
Siro Pacenti 2004 Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello di Montalcino)
- $90
This wine sparked wide debate at the Brunello en primeur tasting because of its new, more streamlined style. Siro Pacenti’s 2004 Brunello is not the concentrated blackberry and chocolate fudge bomb of the past. It’s still a meaty, layered wine laced with pretty layers of spice, mineral and ash. But instead of black concentration, it now exhibits ruby luminosity and…
— M.L.
(6/1/2009)
Castello Romitorio 2004 Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello di Montalcino)
- Cellar Selection
- $70
Castello Romitorio delivers one of our favorite 2004 Brunellos. Managed by an artist-winemaker father and son team, the estate brings us a beautifully compact and elegant wine that is brimming with fresh fruit tones of cherry and blackberry. The mouthfeel is generous and soft with a luscious fruit-filled finish.
— M.L.
(6/1/2009)
Altesino 2004 Montosoli Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello di Montalcino)
- $140
We preferred Altesino’s base Brunello to its cru selection from the estate’s special 10-acre vineyard—but only by the smallest of margins. Montosoli is a tremendous wine with impressive intensity and staying power that takes shape as cherry, tobacco, spice and bursting blueberry. Drink from 2010 through 2020.
— M.L.
(6/1/2009)
Eugen Müller 2004 Forster Stift Eiswein Riesling (Pfalz)
- $77
There’s great purity of fruit here in the wine’s sweet flavors of candied pineapple and fresh apricot balanced by mouthwatering acidity. It’s intense, concentrated stuff, finishing long and sticky.
— J.C.
(6/1/2009)
Ökonomierat Rebholz 2007 Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs Riesling (Pfalz)
- Cellar Selection
- $90
Like the Im Sonnenschein, this wine shows a touch of green on the nose, but there are also some riper notes that bring to mind tangerines. This is almost too intense and minerally; fans of fruity Rieslings will likely be underwhelmed, but if you like the flavors of wet salty stones that extend almost indefinitely on the finish, this wine is a winner.
— J.C.
(6/1/2009)
Avery The Maharaja DIPA
- $7
Golden amber in color with superb lacing. Intense nose of citrus oil and roasted green apple with accents of nectarine pit and sweet pine. Lush and creamy in the mouth, loaded with hoppy flavors of citrus rind and lime oil backed by toasted malt sweetness. Alcohol is in balance, and all of the components perfectly integrated thanks to the unexpected caramelized…
— L.B.
(6/1/2009)
Leeuwin Estate 2005 Art Series Chardonnay (Margaret River)
- Cellar Selection
- $89
This looks to be a top vintage for one of Australia’s most renowned Chardonnays. Like always, it’s big, bold and intense, with melon and pineapple fruit accented by toasted grain and slightly coconutty oak. Right now, it’s a little disjointed, showing a bit of unintegrated oak, but it should come together nicely in a year or two and last up to 10.
— J.C.
(6/1/2009)
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