Aiken

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Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford)

Price $125

Atypical of a Rutherford Cabernet, this is in fact unlike most of today’s expensive Cabernets from anywhere in Napa Valley. It’s aggressively tannic and dry, and it seems emulate an older style, though the alcohol is considerably higher than anything from the old days. With a core of blackberries and black currants, it may well develop bottle complexity over the years. — S.H. (2/1/2013)

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Aiken 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)

Cellar Selection

Price $75

Veteran winemaker Joel Aiken marches to a different beat from today’s cult style, reverting to an older expression of Napa Valley Cabernet. This one is bone dry, tannic and tightly wound in acids. It will not offer much pleasure now, even after decanting. It needs to be aged, and judging by the intense core of blackberries, cherries and minerals, it will easily… — S.H. (2/1/2013)

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Aiken 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain)

Price $55

Notshowing much generosity now, pinched by tough tannins that give it a scoury astringency. Deep inside is a molten core of cherries and cola, with complex earth, mushroom and mineral notes. Pretty soft, but dry and focused, and could age well. Try after 2014. — S.H. (10/1/2011)

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Aiken 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain)

Price $55

This is a big, rich, somewhat heavy Pinot Noir, stuffed with flavors of raspberry and cherry pie, red licorice and oak. It’s impressive for its sheer volume, with zippy acidity that helps balance the high alcohol. It needs a few hours in the decanter to round off the edges, and it should hold in the bottle for several years. — S.H. (3/1/2013)

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Having been given almost four years of age prior to release, this deep…

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