Sure it’s oaky, but it’s good oak, contributing complex aromas of burnt sugar, smoke and bacon fat to an otherwise straightforward peach-and-pear-flavored Chardonnay. The disparate elements converge in a harmonious finish that invites you back for another sip.
Green-bean notes on the nose blow off with aeration to reveal barbecuey, tomatoey aromas. Plum fruit on the palate is more plum skin than flesh, and sadly not as expressive as I'd like. Has a nice, medium body and chalky tannins, though.
Although one taster felt this wine was much better than this rating, majority rules. The meaty, peppery aromas and a sharp herbal edge to the flavors were too much for the rest of our panel, who found it chemical and vegetal.