Cooper Mountain 2002 Meadowlark Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)
Big but not heavy, balanced and forward, this engaging wine holds your interest with initial cranberry/raspberry flavors, that somehow open up into a more ripe, lightly pruney middle. It’s got a pure, clean, long line, racy and nuanced with tea and smoke.
Cooper Mountain 2005 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)
This wine comes from the original estate plantings dating to 1978. It’s got more expressive aromas than its stable mates, with nuances of barnyard, cola and black cherry. It’s tight and austere, a bit chewy and high in acid. Clean and fresh.
Cooper Mountain 1999 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley)
Clean and tart, with crisp green apple fruit and a nice richness through the midpalate. It’s well integrated, with balanced acids and oak complementing the ripe fruit in a food-friendly style. Best Buy. —P.G.
Cooper Mountain 1998 20th Anniversary Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)
This organic bottling marks Cooper’s 20th year, and it’s a tantalizing, high-strung, dusty wine, with a true Pinot nose full of raspberries and cinnamon. Plenty of verve on the palate, which emphasizes fruit and more fruit. The frame is sleek, but it capably carries the wine’s zip.
Cooper Mountain 2006 Mountain Terroir Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)
This young wine is showing well upon release, with light flavors of strawberry and cherry, well-balanced tannins and a streak of cola running through the finish. Drink young.
Cooper Mountain 2005 Meadowlark Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)
The fruits are slightly deeper in this “Five Elements Wine.” The fruit flavors are austere, with wild berries, dry tannins and a somewhat metallic finish. It needs more time to pull together.
Cooper Mountain 2005 Mountain Terroir Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley)
One of the “Five Elements Series” Pinots, the Mountain Terroir has good color, slightly more pronounced fruit than the winery’s Reserve, and plenty of acid. There could be more sweetness to the fruit, but this is still young and pulling itself together, and probably will be better in two or three years.
Cooper Mountain 2000 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley)
Cooper Mountain grows organic grapes and does well by them, as this fresh, ripe Pinot Gris shows. There’s a hint of vitamin pill and waxy lemon in the bouquet, then it’s all about vivid pear and green apple fruit. Plenty of weight and texture fill the mouth, and acid buoys the finish. —P.G.