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Covey Run 2004 Gewürztraminer (Columbia Valley (WA))
Yet another standout effort from this value producer. Clean, penetrating and varietal with layered, spicy fruit—lemon, lime, mint, anise, stone and earth in a marvelously complex array of flavors. 20,500 cases.
Covey Run 1997 Fumé Blanc
Once again this winery scores with a flavor-packed, fun wine that could only be made in Washington. Mounds and mounds of zingy fruit distinguish this wine from other Sauvignon Blancs from around the world, which are often grassy and lean. It borders on being over-the-top, but keeps that perfect bracing acidity. All…
Covey Run 1998 Ice Wine Riesling (Yakima Valley)
Yum. I didn’t know whether to start or finish with this word. The unctuous apricot and peach flavors touched by a spicy botrytis nose make the rich, oily mouthfeel an enjoyable experience. The acids clean up the heavy sugars as the wine closes. This wine is picked and pressed frozen to concentrate the sugars and…
Covey Run 1998 Barrel Select Syrah (Yakima Valley)
The Syrah grape seems to be finding a niche in Washington. The hot days and cool nights emulate those of the Rhône Valley, retaining acids in the grapes. Plums, currants and fresh-vegetable aromas lead into a mouthful of fleshy dark fruits, leather and a slight gamy quality. Full but well integrated tannins balance…
Covey Run 2000 Riesling
This is beautifully sweet and fragrant in the glass, redolent of citrus blossom and a hint of talcum powder. Off-dry with a distinctive spicy streak, it seems to gain concentration through the finish. Big apricot and tangerine fruit extends into a soft, spicy landing.
Covey Run 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon
Like the ’01, this beautifully structured wine is supple and racy, with tart zippy fruit. It shows classic Washington berry flavors, with cassis, bright acid and a hint of licorice. Absolutely clean and varietal, with the extra dimension rarely found in wines at this price.
Covey Run 2002 Syrah
This outstanding effort bursts with bold, dark fruits, laced with herb and earth, and fleshed out with manly tannins. Firm, puckery and balanced, it’s got the juicy blackberry core and the hints of toast that let it compete with wines three times the price.
Covey Run 2004 Riesling (Columbia Valley (WA))
There is an embarrassment of riches in Oregon and Washington when it comes to crisp, seductive Rieslings, but most of the good ones cost double this amount. Wonderfully fresh, lively and fruity, it delivers surprising complexity, with some sweetness (2.7% residual) but nothing sugary or cloying. 57,750 cases were…