That the greatest wine produced in the Baux-en-Provence region should be designated a vin de pays shows how meaningless French appellation law can be. The reason is that this singular wine, produced from rocky vineyards where nothing should reasonably grow, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which is not allowed under appellation rules. Forget the legality…
— R.V.
(4/1/2005)