Less is more; you get the feeling the wine was made by a hands-off winemaker. It’s understandable why he would want the grapes to speak for themselves. They’re amazing, offering up the most generous, sappy flavors you can imagine. You wish it had more of the artist’s touch, even more oaky-framing, something to organize this raw talent. But there’s no doubting its…
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)
Starts off with pretty litchi, plum, citrus and melon notes and sports good body and acidity with a well-rounded mouthfeel. Has loads of minerals on the finish.
— S.H.
(11/15/2001)
From a little vineyard in Philo, this wine has been fermented to absolute dryness, which is rare in a Gewürz. Thus, the acidity is unrelieved, and it’s high. Fruit? Try hints of peach, with earthy herbs. It’s a fierce wine, a connoisseur’s wine. Something this dry and intense needs food to soften it. The winemaker recommends foie gras. —S.H.
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)
The question is whether this wine will improve with age, because it’s a difficult wine now. Earthy and dense with herbal, cherry flavors, and pretty full-bodied for a Pinot, it’s also tannic and tough. Acidity is upfront and tart. Try again in 2005. —S.H.
— S.H.
(4/1/2003)
Lean and strongly flavored with a taste of the earth: mineral, slate and subtle hints of apples. The winemaking was hands -on, with partial barrel fermentation and lees aging, but it’s still a wine of austerity, at least for Chardonnay. High acidity adds a scour to the finish. —S.H.
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)