European Editor

Roger Voss

Reviews wines from Portugal and France.

Wines from Wachau

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Showing 1 thru -8 of 485
97
points

Franz Hirtzberger 2010 Singerriedel Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

  • Cellar Selection
  1. $144

A supreme wine, the embodiment of Wachau Riesling. The steely character with its parallel acidity is beautifully integrated into grapefruit and perfumed white fruits. A taut, nervy texture adds tension to a wine that will age 10 years or more.

 — R.V.  (10/1/2011)
96
points

F X Pichler 2012 Dürnsteiner Kellerberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

  • Cellar Selection
  • Online Exclusive
  1. $89

This is always a major wine, and this vintage is no exception. It is spectacularly ripe, spicy, concentrated and fruity. The yellow fruits, tangy citrus and mineral structure all contribute to an intense complexity. Age this wine for many years and don’t drink before 2017.

 — R.V.  (2/1/2014)
96
points

Emmerich Knoll 2013 Ried Loibenberg Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

  • Cellar Selection
  • Online Exclusive
  1. $54

This is so young, the yeast of the ferment still swings on the nose. Underneath that, tightly curled freshness suggests both candied lemon slices and lemon sorbet—but this needs time to unfurl its glory. Despite its slenderness, this wine has muscle and tone, structure and poise. The long finish is lip-smacking and moreish. Drink 2018–2025.

 — A.K.  (7/1/2015)
96
points

F X Pichler 2013 Dürnsteiner Liebenberg Smaragd Grüner Veltliner (Wachau)

A delightful citrus scent intrigues, suggesting yuzu or mandarin. The palate is richer and introduces notions of earth and that pithy, phenolic edge of serious Grüner Veltliner. The initial citrus on the nose returns with redoubled force on the streamlined, fresh and still tightly closed palate. Give this time to unwind, so that the fruit can fully express itself…

 — A.K.  (7/1/2015)
96
points

Emmerich Knoll 2012 Ried Loibenberg Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Wachau)

  • Cellar Selection
  1. $92

Lusciously ripe, almost honeyed, pear fruit emanates from the glass. Underneath that is grapefruit zest and pith and a herbal, stony, earthy edge. The palate is rich and curvaceous but completely toned by a pervasive, lemony acidity that lends drive and linearity. This is already approachable, which is not to say that it doesn’t promise a lot of mileage: this will…

 — A.K.  (7/1/2015)
96
points

Franz Hirtzberger 2013 Singerriedl Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

  • Editors' Choice
  • Online Exclusive
  1. $99

A zesty nose promises refreshment and poise. The palate not only keeps this promise but tops it. Orange, mandarin and lemon frame riper peach and Mirabelle plum explode like a firework of fruit on the palate. This is fruit-framed, citrus-focused joy, combining immense concentration with immense elegance. There is a long and exciting life ahead of this.

 — A.K.  (3/1/2015)
96
points

Franz Hirtzberger 2010 Hochrain Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

  1. $103

A beautifully perfumed wine is give shape by its great swathe of minerality, its intense acidity. The fruits range from citrus to white peach, a gallery of delicious flavor. Like any great Riesling, it needs years to mature.

 — R.V.  (10/1/2011)
96
points

Prager 2009 Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd Riesling (Wachau)

  • Cellar Selection
  1. $70

A lovely wine. Ripe Riesling held under tension, its coiled white fruits creating the crispest citrus character. The wine is just settling out on a long development, its steely edge and intense acidity promising many years.

 — R.V.  (10/1/2010)
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