Pricey, but very fancy, with a metallic minerality that lifts it above the ordinary. After that bite of cold steel, you get an infusion of grilled pineapples, and lush, exotic papaya, while oak adds rich layers of buttered toast and honey. Delicious and complex.
This is red wine’s version of hearty health food—it’s unfined and unfiltered, and you will know it right away. Concentrated beyond all get out, it has laser-beam intensity, but with pleasant soft tannins. Thunderous with Thor-like strength, the sensual side of this monster Cab is what tops the cake. One to keep an eye on.
A vineyard selection that contains a little more concentration, with tropical fruit notes and oriental spices. Generous oak frames everything, but the fruit is big enough to stand up to it. Pulls off that elusive balancing act of tasting honeyed sweet but being basically dry. A fancy Chard, well made and opulent. —S.H.
Big, young, kick-butt mountain Cabernet, as concentrated as it gets. Offers an array of berries, tree fruits and herbs. Tannins are melted and soft, and youth-ful acids provide a punch to this dense wine.
From 2,000-foot vineyards comes this ripe, intense Cabernet. Very pure cassis aromas and flavors, and lots of oak. Rich and dense in the mouth, with young, flashy fruit. Ripe and polished, and what a long finish. Soft but fine tannins. Can drink now or age.
With a pale color, modest alcohol and plenty of acidity, this Pinot Noir is made in a more food-friendly style than some of the richer ones around. It’s bone dry and sleek, with a minerality undergirding tart sour cherry candy and spice flavors. A lovely, elegant wine that should hang in there for a good six years.