Even in Mendocino, growing Pinot Noir on these sunny ridgetops is controversial. This one is certainly ripe and fruity enough, filled with gobs of black raspberry and cherry flavors, and telltale silky tannins. The appellation may yet define itself for the varietal. But for now, as tasty as it is, it seems heavy-handed, and lacks the subtlety delicacy Pinot wants. —S.H.
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)
Longtime winemaker Van Williamson has crafted a late-harvest style wine, with 16.5% alcohol. The rich berry flavors drink on the sweet side, but the wine is saved from flabbiness by firm acids. Zinfandel from these fog-free ridgetops ripens to high sugars, and the winemaker’s challenge is to make the wine balanced. —S.H.
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)
This Brown-Forman-owned brand succeeded with Zinfandel and now is trying its hand at Syrah, with mixed results. This release, while well-made, lacks stuffing, although the acid and tannin structure is very good. There are some earthy-berry flavors but the wine needs more oomph. More tinkering is called for, probably in the vineyards. —S.H.
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)
This is a dark, fairly tannic Pinot, with flavors of blue and black stone fruits and berries, and neutral oak. It’s acidic and very dry. Not showing much finesse, but a good wine.
— S.H.
(3/1/2005)
With smoky, ashy aromas and soft, slightly sweet medicinal flavors of cherries, root beer and vanilla oak, this Pinot might improve with age, but is currently a bit simple.
— S.H.
(3/1/2009)
Robust and briary, this Zin is bone-dry and pretty tannic, with earthy flavors of blackberries, tobacco, currants and spices. Could mellow with age, but will never be particularly complex.
— S.H.
(4/1/2009)
When Zin gets this ripe, all you can do is make a strong, heady, sweet wine. Here, 16.9% alcohol and 2.8% residual sugar make for a powerful, warming brew, distinctive in its own right, and one that has many fans. —S.H.
— S.H.
(5/1/2002)
A fruity wine redolent of cherry, blackberry and plums. The oak, however, is a bit heavy handed here-as is the acidity. It’s still a pleasant quaff, but could use better integration.
— W.E.
(11/1/2003)