This multivintage bottling is extraordinarily rich in orange fruit. You’ll find complex layers of smoky butter, yeasty brioche, vanilla and toasted oak. What’s so remarkable, though, is the mouthfeel: While it’s brisk in acidity, it feels as soft and gentle as satin. It’s so beautiful now that you’ll find it difficult to keep from drinking the entire magnum immediately.
— S.H.
(12/1/2012)
A triumph, really. Held back for 14 years and just recently disgorged, it’s fantastically rich and complex, just oozing the most delicious orange, butterscotch, yeast and toast flavors. So silky, so sweet in fruit, and yet with a dry finish. Stands out in any tasting of the best sparklers. Hard to imagine a California bubbly better than this.
— S.H.
(12/15/2011)
The cold and fog actually helped this Chardonnay, which achieves a remarkable delicacy and tartness despite the power of its fruit. Really remarkable for the flood of golden mango, Asian pear and Key lime pie richness, which is grounded by a firm minerality. Oak influence and aging on the lees lend the perfect touches of smoky, buttered toast and zesty creaminess…
— S.H.
(9/1/2012)
This distinctive Pinot Noir’s source is a tiny vineyard in cool Green Valley; the winegrower is James MacPhail, whose own MacPhail Pinot Noirs are so good. The wine itself is totally dry and silky and firm in acidity, yet soft in fine tannins. You might call it noble. It’s eruptive in cherries, sweet smoky bacon, raspberry granola and oaky sandalwood. Gorgeous…
— S.H.
(9/11/2009)
Made from equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine was aged on the lees for more than four years, which gives it a fabulous creamy, yeasty complexity. There are tantalizing flavors of limes, orange zest, roasted hazelnuts, minerals and smoke. Absolutely wonderful now, and should hold and develop in the bottle through 2014, at least. Only 563 cases produced.
— S.H.
(12/31/2009)
This vineyard has proved itself for so many years that it’s practically a guarantee of greatness. This 2008 is a real stunner. It’s so rich and exotic, so balanced and dry, so clean. Dazzles with pear, pineapple, lychee, roasted hazelnut, crème brûlée, buttered toast, honey and spice flavors, wrapped into a creamy smooth mouthfeel. Brilliant and compelling. Drink now.
— S.H.
(12/15/2010)
Marked by its soft, mousse-like refinement, this sparkling wine is sheer silk and satin in the mouth. On the palate, the raspberry, lime and vanilla flavors are subtle, while leesy doughiness and oakiness bring a touch of smoke. This is a beautiful wine for a celebratory toast, or to enjoy with lobster, crab or scallops. It would also perfect a weekend brunch…
— S.H.
(12/1/2012)
The virtues of this 100% Chardonnay are its elegance, cleanliness, brightness and the sheer pleasure it offers. It’s so refined and complex, offering flavors of Meyer lemons, Kaffir limes, brioche and smoky vanilla that change endlessly in the glass. Just fabulous, and a terrifically versatile food wine.
— S.H.
(12/31/2008)