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Château de Fonsalette 1998 Réservé Syrah (Côtes du Rhône)

Price $50

If this Syrah could sing, its song would probably be "It Isn't Easy Being Green." (We'd probably want it to add a verse about loads of black pepper, through and through, too.) Edaname, mint, wintergreen and herbal aromas set the stage for a largely green-pepper and green-oak palate. It's tart, lean and needs time but, as one reviewer noted, it will probably "always… — W.E. (11/1/2001)

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