The small amount of Viognier helps to fill out this wine’s mouthfeel, adding weight to the spice-driven flavors of cracked pepper, licorice, coffee and block olive. Finishes long and well structured, with a velvety texture to the tannins.
Made in a crisper, fresher style than many Viogniers, without the extreme aromatics of some, but possessing fine, complex pear and pineapple fruit alongside smoky-minerally notes. It’s medium-bodied and admirably focused, with a long, refreshing finish.
De Bortoli’s top wines come off their estate vineyards in the Yarra Valley, and this Chardonnay is a hit, balancing the lead-pencil scents of French oak barrels against layers of honeyed apple and pear fruit and a zippy note of citrus. It’s round in the mouth without being fat, crisp on the finish while showing a touch of buttery richness. Drink now.
De Bortoli winemaker Stephen Webber operates on a somewhat contrarian level, so this is not a soft cuddly Shiraz-Viognier loaded with apricot notes. Instead, it features savory, meaty aromas lifted by peppery elements and black olive, espresso and tart plum flavors. It’s medium-bodied, firmly structured, and should age through at least 2020.
In keeping with winemaker Steve Webber’s moderate-alcohol, food-friendly style, this 2008 is medium in weight, with a silky-textured finish. Although labeled as Shiraz-Viognier, the Viognier component isn’t really apparent in the wine, which features more classic Shiraz notes of tar, beef and tapenade. Drink it over the next several years.
Classic Viognier aromas of white flowers and peaches grab you by the lapels and pull you into the glass. The palate is more straightforward with stone fruit flavors shot through with a strong mineral note that lingers on the finish. Unusually structured for Oz Viognier, and commendable for it.
Fairly ripe, with fig and melon flavors tinged with smoky notes. Fermentation in used wood has imparted textural richness to the palate, while allowing the grapefruit character to shine through on the finish.
The outlook at De Bortoli’s Yarra Valley winery is—dare it be said—more European in focus, fashioning wines that de-emphasize primary fruit in favor of terroir and texture. This Chardonnay is a good example, lacking overt fruit but showcasing mealy, leesy notes, a welcoming custardy texture and a lingering, minerally finish.