Don Olegario

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Don Olegario 2006 Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Price $22

Ripe, tropical and laced with pineapple, nectarine, green banana and melon. This is the best Don Olegario we’ve had in the past three vintages, and that’s because it’s here in the year after harvest, as it should be. Thus it’s fresh, smooth and tight, with hints of petrol, pepper and citrus pith toughening up the finish. Drink now. — M.S. (4/1/2008)

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Don Olegario 2010 Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Price $22

Crisp apple and pineapple aromas come on strong on this healthy, straw-colored Galician quaffer. The palate is full and chalky, with fine acidity and tropical flavors of pineapple and mango. Finishes round, with just enough cutting acidity — M.S. (10/1/2011)

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Don Olegario 2009 Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Price $22

Pungent and sweaty smelling on first blush, almost suggesting Verdejo or Sauvignon Blanc. It remains oily and nettled on the nose, with sharpness. Sooner rather than later it softens, unveiling flavors of green melon, passionfruit and citrus. And the finish goes out with snap, orange and grapefruit. Potent for the variety. — M.S. (10/1/2010)

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Don Olegario 2004 Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Price $21

Albariño is not known for its aging potential, and this wine already seems to be on the way out. The nose veers toward apricot and cider, as does the palate. Finishes with a final kick of acidity. Drink soon, or wait for the 2005. — M.S. (12/15/2006)

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Don Olegario 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas)

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Price $18

This smells stalky and past its prime, but it’s not stinky or maderized. The palate is fleshy in feel and oily in sensation, with bitter citrus flavors and pithy notes. Neither vital nor fresh on the finish. — M.S. (2/1/2013)

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Don Olegario 2005 Albariño (Rías Baixas)

Price $22

Sharp and sweaty on the nose, with bulky passion fruit, scallion and citrus flavors. This wine is on its last legs; it’s soft, fleshy and starting to lose its final vestiges of freshness. You’ll be better off waiting for the 2006, assuming it gets to market soon. — M.S. (11/1/2007)

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