The Celilo Vineyard is arguably the finest location in Washington for growing Gewürztraminer, and over the years quite a few winemakers from both Washington and Oregon have worked with these grapes. No one does a better job than Chris Dowsett, and this new vintage is his finest to date. A thrilling wine, from the first sniff to the last lingering sip—lemon peel…
— P.G.
(12/31/2010)
The 2008 Devotion is 41% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 29% Grenache. Winemaker Chris Dowsett notes that he is upping the percentage of Mourvèdre again in the 2009 version. It’s a significant improvement, elevating this blend into a rarefied, tightly controlled, sculpted wine with wild berry and cherry, iron filings, dark chocolate and licorice, wrapped in firm, polished…
— P.G.
(12/31/2010)
These vines were planted in 1984; they are dry-farmed with all-natural acids, most unusual for Washington State. So you have a beguiling mix of aromatic, lightly soapy, perfumed, floral scents, matched to exotic passion fruit and grapefruity citrus. There is a lot of acid here, and it’s a young wine, but it has wonderful concentration and a full-throttle mix of…
— P.G.
(12/15/2008)
Chris Dowsett makes just a single Gewürztraminer each year, always from Celilo vines planted in 1982. 2010 was the coolest vintage in two decades at this high-altitude site. If you love searing acidity, married to varietal spice, rose petals, lemons, grapefruit, star fruit and gooseberries, you are in for a treat. Fermented in neutral French oak and left on the…
— P.G.
(11/1/2011)
The cool 2011 vintage hit the Columbia Gorge especially hard, but winemaker Chris Dowsett has crafted an expressive, wonderfully fragrant old-vine Gewürztraminer. This is tart and saline, with notes of lemon, lime and grapefruit rind and flesh that combine to form a delicate, lingering, snappy and bracing style.
— P.G.
(9/1/2012)
A Chateauneuf-style, ruby red blend of 52% Syrah 26% Mourvèdre and 22% Grenache. Lots of spice and black pepper to complement the bright red fruits. Still very young and not-quite resolved; the aromatics have a fresh cut lumber smell, though very little new oak was actually used in the wine. Give it some time to knit together, or decant well before drinking.
— P.G.
(8/1/2009)
Pure Mourvèdre remains a rare bird of a wine, even in grape-happy Washington State. This is a good example, with flavors that carry the leafy, herbal character often found in Carmenère and the bright, mineral-laced fruit of southern French wines. It’s not a big wine, and the vines from which the grapes are sourced are still young, but it’s well made and will hold…
— P.G.
(2/1/2013)
The 2009 Devotion credits the exact same blend of grapes and vineyards as the 2008—41% Syrah (Morrison Lane Vineyard), 30% Mourvèdre (Heart of the Hill Vineyard), and 29% Grenache (Destiny Ridge Vineyard). Yet it does not quite measure up to that superior vintage. It may be a passing stage, but the engaging, tart, wild-berry flavors on entry quickly drop off on the…
— P.G.
(2/1/2013)