Exotic aromas of tropical fruit and honey tangerines introduce this intensely fruity yet elegantly structured spätlese. The palate is powerfully concentrated, all the while, being lifted by a spray of citrus acidity and crushed minerals. It’s unabashedly sweet with fruit, yet finishes remarkably dry.
A classic from a great vineyard site, the 2001 kabinett boasts grassy, lime aromas and plenty of tart, citrusy, green-apple fruit. It’s an S&M wine—the piercing acidity almost painful, while the fresh, sweet fruit provides intense pleasure. Rare is the kabinett that will improve over 20 years, but this one’s a shoo-in. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
Redolent with sweet peach and nectarine, this penetrating off-dry Riesling is chock full of juicy, fruity nectar, but honed by a streak of acidity that keeps the palate bright and fresh. Finishes long, with a murmur of orange-pith astringency.
Thirty bucks may seem like a lot for an entry-level Riesling, but this is an exemplary example. Aromas of wet stones, moss and spring flowers are mouthwatering, and then are followed by a complex array of nonfruity flavors, like stones and greens carried along by a mouthfeel that’s light as a feather. Tart pineapple emerges on the long finish. Drink anytime over…
Very perfumed and floral, with added scents of lime and strawberry. On the palate, slaty, stony notes and lime flavors balance the considerable sweetness, ending long and stridently tart. The crisp acids give this the backbone to age 10 or more years.
Hints of crushed wet stones lend intense minerality to zesty lemon-lime and floral aromas on the nose. It’s just a shade off dry in style, with elegant stone fruit flavors and nervous acidity that ripples on the palate.
Prevailing lemony, citrus-cocktail aromas with hints of almond macaroons. Though medium sweet, it is lip-smackingly crisp and racy, with zesty citrus flavors following through on the palate. Moderately intense and reasonably taut, if a little austere.
Superstar Egon Müller has at least kept his basic Riesling at an affordable level. At first, it’s almost odorless, but give it a chance to develop in the glass and delicate apple, fern and lime notes emerge. A hint of CO2 adds to the impression of lightness, and the wine finishes crisp, racy and clean. A finesse-filled wine likely best in its youth.