Overt and akin in some ways to Gewurztraminer. Flowery, lemony and fairly ebullient. Driving acidity keeps it fresh, and it tails away with a dry, soda-like snap. But drink soon; it’s not getting younger.
A toasty, milky creaminess plays heavily on the bouquet, and in the mouth there’s a lot of coconut. Sharp acidity pushes pineapple and green-apple characteristics. Has its virtues, but awkward at all points.
Some marshmallow and black cherry aromas peek through a veil of woody scents, but overall the wine is short on fruit. The primary flavors are woody and smoky, like the inside of a charred barrel; the finish hollow. —J.C.