Cepas Vellas refers to old vines, but what’s most noticeable on this wine is the popcorn and cream that characterizes both the nose and mouth. In between the oak-aided folds there’s melon, waxy papaya and banana flavors sitting on a plump, cushioned palate. It’s a holdover from 2005, so drink it while you have it.
— M.S.
(4/1/2008)