Smoky and fruity upfront, reminiscent of wood-grilled white peaches, but tinged with hints of toasted hazelnut and pineapple as well. This is full-bodied yet reined in by the intense, citrus-zest finish. Drink it over the next 5–7 years.
Full-bodied and lush, the Hickory Hill is the most ebullient of the 2008s from Kumeu River, laced with oak and lees embellishments of toasted almonds, vanilla and hickory smoke yet balanced by rounded, melony fruit. It finishes long and citrusy, suggesting it may evolve positively for at least a few years.
This vineyard designate was previously a major part of Kumeu River’s estate blend and bears a close resemblance to that wine, yielding aromas of melon and citrus set off by understated oak. It’s medium bodied, with a succulence to the fruit that leaves the mouth watering on the finish. Drink now–2012.