This is a new bottling from Morgan, a junior version of their great Hat Trick Chardonnay. Most of the grapes come from the winery’s Double L estate. The wine is bone dry, high in acidity, and compellingly complex. The dryness makes the lime zest and kiwi flavors star on their own, while new French oak adds a gorgeous layer of toasty cream.
Morgan makes one of the best, most powerful Santa Lucia Chardonnays, and this less expensive bottling is a good approximation of their top tier. It’s strong and potent, with cool-climate acidity framing mouthwatering pineapple jam, Key lime pie, kiwi fruit, white peach and vanilla cream flavors.
Those familiar with Morgan’s more expensive Chardonnays, such as the Double L (which comprises 55% of this blend) will find true value in this regional wine. It shows similar power and authority in a showy, Chablis-style wine whose acidic, minerally structure frames intense citrus and oak flavors.
Strong and flashy, not particularly subtle, but impressive in sheer volume, which is a mark of many Santa Lucia Highlands wines. In this case, the wine shows brisk acidity that lends clean balance to the huge orange, mango, apricot, vanilla and buttered toast flavors.