Connoisseurs are taking a fresh look at this variety despite its reputation as a common wine. Let’s get one thing straight: It will never possess the refined personality of, say, Cabernet. But sometimes this rough-edged, drily tannic wine fits the bill perfectly. I’m thinking game, or bruschetta with peppers and onions.
From a Rhône specialist, a wine the tasters liked for its fruity mix of cherry-berry flavors, although it started off closed and tight and needed considerable airing. Tannins are on the hefty side, which makes the wine feel chewy and rustic.