The Northern Rhône is the paradigm here, to judge by this wine’s dry density, seriousness and its white-pepper aroma. It’s full and rich on the palate, with fine blackberry, cherry, cocoa and oak flavors. Really quite fabulous in all respects. Best now for its flamboyant youthfulness and intensity.
This wine is almost over the top. If it had any more ripe, jammy fruit, it would be. As it is, it’s balanced enough in tannins and acids so that the flood of blackberry pie and mocha flavors go only so far before dryness and structure kick in to check. Those tannins are a modern-day wonder, ripe, sweet and sturdy.