An interesting wine you can call intellectual. Its appeal is as much conceptual as hedonistic. It’s the opposite of today’s soft, sweet fruit bombs, being bone dry and somewhat austere, showing a tightly knit tannic structure. With an explosive, but controlled, central core of blackberries, it’s a cellar candidate. It will be fascinating to try this wine after 2014.
— S.H.
(4/1/2011)
This is a strong, oaky, ripe Chardonnay, grown on a mountain better known for Cabernet. It’s powerful and intense in pineapple tart, pear marmalade, Meyer lemon and lime flavors that have been liberally oaked, and it shows the creamy influence of lees. Not particularly subtle, it’s a wine you don’t want to drink too cold.
— S.H.
(7/1/2010)
Easy to really like this soft, delicious Merlot. It’s so rich in black cherries and cassis, with a chocolaty edge and smoky, sweet notes of oak barrels. Not an ager, but one of the fancier Merlots out there.
— S.H.
(4/1/2011)
Here’s a Cabernet to lay down in the cellar for 6–8 years—or even longer. Two things mark it: the extremely ripe, concentrated blackberry and black currant fruit, and the hefty tannins. Most people will probably open it too soon and miss out on what it could be, when the tannins drop out to reveal its sweet fruity essence.
— S.H.
(10/1/2012)
Almost nobody in California makes a Columbard, especially in a high-rent district like Russian River, but this white wine deserves your attention. It’s dry and very crisp in acidity, with flavors of citrus fruits, peaches, pears, honeysuckle flowers and spices. Great as an interesting alternative to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.
— S.H.
(8/1/2009)
This wine is strong in acidity and green, mouthwatering gooseberry flavors. It’s so dry, your palate seeks out whatever fruity relief it can find, which comes in the form of limes, green apples and a squirt of honey. Very clean and elegant.
— S.H.
(10/1/2012)
Tastes grapey, with green table grape, pineapple, vanilla and spice flavors, and the finish is totally dry and crisp. It’s a good, rich, savory wine, rather like a Pinot Gris, at a good price.
— S.H.
(7/1/2010)
Sweet and sour acidity marks this dry wine, made from a variety that’s been out of fashion for decades. With just a touch of oak, its tart tangerine, citron, lemongrass and mineral flavors star. Drink as an offbeat, low-alcohol alternative to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.
— S.H.
(9/1/2011)