Picked relatively early—the finished alcohol level is only 11%—this is suprisingly soft and round while remaining light in body: It’s a charming sylph. The only quibble is that the lime-like flavors fade relatively quickly on the finish.
Once thought to be Albariño, this grape variety is actually native to France’s Jura. In this example from South Australia, it’s a lean, crisp white, with hints of pencil shavings that accent its grapefruity flavors. It’s pretty, harmonious and a good all-around white for drinking over the next 6–9 months.